- Saving image and thread list in wilcom hatch how to#
- Saving image and thread list in wilcom hatch software#
In the daisies below, the smaller bottom daisies need to sew behind the green while the rest of the blue daisies sew on top. If the dots need to be on top because the are the foremost element in the composition, then jumps will be required. Traveling like this may not always work depending on how those objects are visually layered. The jumps would be quite short and difficult to trim without accidentally cutting the stitches below. This ladybug is quite small-less than 2″ wide-and trying to trim the dots on top of the wings would be difficult. For example, if that same ladybug is composed of fills and satins, then we can digitize the dots earlier in the design and sneak under the surrounding fill with a running stitch to connect those dots-which is exactly what I’ve done in this little ladybug from He Loves Me.īy keeping the stitches on the shorter side, the machine tensions will naturally pull those stitches into the fabric more tightly and if we make sure they aren’t running parallel to the top stitching, in most cases they’ll never show at all. With embroidery, we can often do some sneaking around in the design.
Saving image and thread list in wilcom hatch how to#
Embrilliance Essentials has a great sewing simulator built right in! How to Minimize Jumps This will give you a good idea of how the design is sequenced and you can often see if a design is worth sewing at all on the machine. Since there’s such variation in software, I won’t go there in this post.Īnother good thing to do with a new design is to run it through a sewing simulator in your software. I usually list the number of trims in a design with the color sequence information, but this doesn’t tell you where they are. Try turning off 3D to see if the connection lines are displayed.
Saving image and thread list in wilcom hatch software#
Your software may not show these connections, especially if it displays embroidery in “3D” or rendered to look like an embroidery and/or it recognizes trim commands so it may be difficult to determine whether there are jumps. The screen shots in this post are all taken from my digitizing software, which can display the connectors, whether they are a jump within a color or a connection from one color to the next, which in most cases, won’t be a jump when sewn. The ladybug below is an applique and the spots are on top of the fabric so yes, there will be trims between those dots. Lifting your crayon is the equivalent of a jump stitch in embroidery. If you want to color the spots black, you’d color a spot, then lift your crayon and move to the next spot. To put this into perspective for a newbie, imagine a coloring book image of a ladybug. I make it a game to see if I can eliminate jumps or keep them to a bare minimum but it isn’t always possible depending on the artwork. If all the parts are connected, then the only time you or your machine needs to trim a thread is at the end of a color or the end of design. Tip: Many times sewing the DST version of the design (well, at least mine, since that’s the “master” stitch file format) won’t do that extra stitch drop.Īnother way to think about this is to imagine your design as one continuous thread from start to finish. (Shown below: Love to Sew, 2 color version.) If your machine does that too, just remember to hit the +1 stitch button to advance one stitch at the beginning and when changing colors and that won’t happen. And it will do that on every color change, sinking the needle at the end of the previous color and then traveling to where the real start of the next color begins. On one of my older machines, it will actually sink the needle in center and then travel.
I don’t really count that one because on most machines, the machine just moves to the start point and starts stitching. The first one travels from the “home” position (center of the hoop) at the beginning of the design to the start of the first stitch. In the screen capture below, the gray connector lines are jumps. These short jumps aren’t likely to trigger the automatic trimmers on machines that have them. Some jumps aren’t any longer than a normal stitch length and may either be covered by other stitches or barely visible. A “jump” is any connector stitch that jumps from one object over to another area for sewing. However, just because there are jumps or even a lot of them, doesn’t mean it’s a poorly digitized design.įirst of all let’s look at what a jump stitch is. Novice digitizers and poorly digitized designs frequently have too many unnecessary jumps due to poor planning. I often see posts on Facebook where users are raking various digitizers over the coals because of “too many jump stitches.” In some instances, the complaints are well deserved but that’s not always the case!
0 kommentar(er)
